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Types of Razor heads:

Classic: These are the most common razor heads as they tend to be more mild and easier to use than the others. These razors are great for beginners and experts, alike. The aggressiveness depends mostly on the angle of your shave. Examples of the classic razor head are the: Merkur 34C and Edwin Jagger DE89L.

Adjustable: There are only a handful of adjustable razors and are very high in demand. These razors have a dial that can be adjusted to expose more or less of the blade's cutting edge to allow for very mild or very close shaves. Adjustable razors include the: Merkur Vision and Merkur Progress. Because of the many moving parts, adjustable razors need to be cleaned more thoroughly.

Slant or Open Comb: Both varieties are recommended for shavers that have thick, coarse beards and are already comfortable with using a safety razor. More of the blade is exposed and less pressure it required while shaving. Consequently, these tend to be more aggressive than the other types. Examples of Slant or Open Comb razors include the: Merkur 37C, Muhle R41 and the complete Joris line of razors

TTO or Butterfly: Twist to Turn Razors are one-piece razors that have a twist mechanism that opens up the head to change blades. These range from mild to medium aggressiveness. Examples or TTO or Butterfly razors include: most Parker brand razors and even the wildly popular Merkur Vision

Handles:

Plating: Most razors have some type of plating whether it be chrome or nickel. It is common to have some type of metal core with plating because it is both inexpensive and effective against rust. Chrome plated razors have more of a white look while nickel could be seen as a tad yellow-ish. The Merkur 33C is a chrome plated razor, while the Parker 90R is nickel-plated.

Knurling: Knurling refers to different textures and patterns on a razor's handle. Some suggest that knurling adds better grip while handling a razor. The most common type of knurling includes a lined handle as seen with the Edwin Jagger DE89L. Other types of knurling include the textured Merkur 34C or the more detailed knurling of the Merkur 42C patterned after the classic 1904 Gillette.

Long or Short: The length of a handle should depend on the user's comfort level. Shavers with large hands generally prefer longer handles for a better grip. Although generally, longer handles tend to be more slender. An example of a long handled razor is the Merkur 20C

Wood or Horn: Wood and horn handles in no way effect the performance of a shave. They are seen as exclusive and valuable due to their rarity. Due to the nature of the materials, no two razors will be an exact match. We recommend taking extra care of these razors to avoid cracking.

Stainless Steel: Stainless Steel razors have recently gained in popularity due to the Feather AS-D1 and Pils 101NE. These razors are usually constructed of solid stainless steel and do not rust, but we do recommend using only stainless steel blades and thorough cleanings.

Blades

Most modern safety razor blades are one-shape-fits-all. The majority of razorblades are stainless steel and some are coated with Platinum or Chrome to make them more comfortable for sensitive skin. Each person will react differently to different types and brands of razorblades. The best way to find out which blade is best for your skin and technique is to simply try as many as possible. We recommend investing in a Multipack of Blades to find out which works best for you.

1. What if you are a beginner, which straight razor is right for you?

If you are a beginner, you'll want to start off with a half hollow 5/8" straight razor. The half hollow is a little stiffer than the full hollow or extra hollow and therefore easier to use. The 5/8"¯ is the perfect size for beginners because it is easier to maneuver than the larger sizes.

2. Is the razor ready to use when you receive it?

The razor is sharp and ready for shaving when you take it out of the box. You should strop your razor before each use with a leather strop - this includes the first time that you use it. Stropping with a leather strop warms the blade while aligning it which gives the blade the proper structure for shaving. It is very important to repeat the stropping procedure before each and every shave. Proper stropping techniques are very important and are demonstrated in the video at the following link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCeeeKzDam4

3. How often do you need to sharpen your razor?

You should not need to sharpen your razor with a stone until you have used it approximately 1000 times if you strop it with a leather strop before each shave. If you sharpen your razor too often, you will shorten the life of your blade.

4. What do you need besides a razor?

The only required item besides the straight razor is the leather strop. You can use a paste or oil to condition the leather of the strop occasionally. We do recommend shaving with a cream or soap to avoid irritation.

5. How should you care for your straight razor?

Be sure when you are finished shaving that you completely rinse the razor with warm water. You must be sure to remove all of the shaving cream and hair from the razor. It is also very important to make sure the razor is completely dry before putting it away. If you do not dry the razor completely with a towel, or paper towel, the blade can be prone to rust. Rust is especially common with the carbon steel blades.

6. Do you need to put anything on the blade?

If your razor has been sitting unused for more than a few days, you should put a little razor oil on the blade before using. Use special razor oil on the blade. If you use the razor daily, and care for it properly, you should not need to oil the blade.

7. How long should your straight razor last?

With proper care and usage your razor should last for years. The hollow blade is thinner and will wear away faster than a half hollow, but will last for at least 3000 to 4000 uses.

Step 1

Invest in a brush stand. By drying your wet brushes in a stand, you will allow excess water to drain and preserve the quality of the bristles. It also benefits the handle, and keeps the material from corroding or developing stains. We recommend storing the brush upside down to allow any excess water to drip away from the brush.

Step 2

Clean stains on your shaving brush handle. For metals, try a metal polish or use toothpaste on an old toothbrush to scrub away soap residue. On a wood-handled brush, some discoloration is normal over time and does not indicate a problem with your shaving brush. With exclusive horn handles, we recommend a product like the Gold Dachs Horn Protection Balm or similar. These specialized balms will keep the horn handles from cracking.

Step 3

Prevent bristle loss. While some loss in bristles is normal, it should not be excessive. Clean the brush thoroughly after every use. Shake the brush after use so that there is no dripping water and the bristles are only slightly damp.

Step 4

Air drying is the best way to preserve a brush. Avoid storing your brush when it's damp. Always be sure to shake your brush dry after use. If you must pack your brush for travel or other purposes, allow sufficient drying time beforehand or limit the amount of time that your brush is in a confined space. It is not a good idea to store your brush in a shower or similar location.

Step 5

Develop good use habits. Some of the most obvious tricks include avoiding pulling or straining the bristles. There are many specialized companies for men's shaving accessories, and many have websites that offer tips for extending your brush's life.

STEP 1: PREPARE

Why Prepare?

The ideal shave depends on an unhurried approach, where, using the proper pre-shave products, tough beard hairs are softened and coaxed away from the face. Even on rushed days, some facial preparation is vital to reduce razor burn and achieve a smoother shave.

How To Prepare for Shaving

As is evident by the term "Wet Shaving"¯, perhaps the most important ingredient in the quest for the perfect shave is lots of hot water. Always shave after a hot shower or after applying steamed towels to the face. This opens the pores, making it easy to clip beard hairs close to the skin. Without hot water, the razor is more likely to skip as it drags across the face, pulling the hairs rather than slicing cleanly through them, which results in a painful shave and irritated skin.

Preshave scrubs, oils, and gels can further prime the skin for shaving. Truefitt and Hill and Taylor both make excellent products that nourish the skin without clogging pores. Their softening properties are the effect of natural botanical oils, and are especially recommended for those with coarse beards or sensitive skin.

STEP 2: LATHER

What You Will Need

The simplest yet most-overlooked way to improve your daily shave centers on the implementation of a quality badger hair brush. Badger-hair brushes are accepted as the pinnacle in the shaving industry because of their durable water-holding ability (not to mention they feel extraordinary against the face). When used in conjunction with a glycerin-based shaving cream or soap, the shaving brush exfoliates the skin, and lifts stubborn or ingrown hairs away from the face into a shave-ready, razor-vulnerable position. (For more information on shaving brushes, their use and upkeep, please visit "The Basics: Shaving Brushes".

Like pre-shave oils and gels, a superior shaving cream will act as a softener. Beard hairs are incredibly tough - tougher than the edge of the razorblade, and placating them with a rich emollient makes it much easier for the blade to run smoothly along its path. The best shaving creams, such as the ones sold on Royalshave, are glycerine-based, and are made by traditional European soap makers who've been perfecting their trade for over a century.

How To Mix Lather

When using a shaving soap, you'll need to work for an extra minute or two to create the lather. Simply pass the tips of a wet (but not dripping wet) brush over the surface of the soap disc - this acquires the soap on the bristles. Then, in a separate bowl, mix the soap until you've produced plentiful foam.

With only a nut-sized dollop, shaving creams can be mixed into lather in a bowl or directly on the face. We recommend applying the lather from the tip of the brush in a smooth, sideways-swinging motion, not unlike painting a house.

STEP 3: SHAVE

The Safety Razor Shave

Although safety razors¯ are less ostensibly dangerous than straight razors, winning the perfect shave with a double-edge blade, a twin blade, or a Mach 3, still requires a good amount of patience and finesse. After examining which direction your beard grows on all areas of your face (everyone's growth pattern is different), lightly guide the razor with the direction of the beard first. When using high-quality blades, such as Merkur or Lord, you'll do well with minimal pressure on the razor, allowing the sharpness of the edge to do its work unimpeded. The difference between a Merkur razor with adjustable blade angles and a Mach III brand found in the local supermarket is astounding; we strongly urge even the most obstinate Mach 3 user to give the double-edge razors a try. Once the razor has passed fully over the face in the direction of the grain, re-wet your face with hot water, re-lather, and pass the razor, even more lightly this time, against the grain of the beard. This final step ensures the closest possible shave, but you must be willing to re-lather, and to ease the razor lightly and gently against the grain in order to reduce the risk of nicks, cuts, and razor irritation.

Straight Razor

An adept shave with a straight razor requires more practice than with safety razors, but taking proper precautions, one should not be discouraged from embarking on a straight razor shave. As with safety razors, an examination of your face is required to gauge which direction your beard grows. Again, the first pass of the razor should go with the grain, then, after a second wetting and lathering, try the blade carefully against the grain. A third, touch up, pass may be necessary as well. For protection against cutting and razor burn, remember to hold the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin, and remain unafraid to keep the blade moving - a resting blade is sharp enough to sink into the skin with too much pressure. Using your non-dominant hand to pull the skin tight will lessen the likelihood of cuts, and make the path of the razor smoother and easier for you to see. In close areas such as around the nose and corners of the mouth, we suggest leading slightly with the point of the razor.

STEP 4: REVITALIZE

How to Finish

Even after a textbook shave, when your face is smooth and free of razor burn, the newly-exposed under-layers of skin are begging for vitalization. The cleansing power of the shaving soap tends to dry out the skin, and your face will feel better, and look better, after re-hydrating with a decent aftershave. For the most finished shave, we advise splashing yourself with cold water before using an alum block over the entire face. An alum block is a clear-drying antiseptic that tightens the pores and feels marvelous going on a freshly-shaved face (this step is as much for the shaver's pleasure as it is for practicality). After an alum block, the last step in revitalization calls for aftershave. Some shavers actually enjoy the sting and tingle of old-fashioned, alcohol-based aftershaves, but to most shavers we recommend applying non-alcohol based formulas, such as those from Haslinger or Truefitt & Hill, that will irrigate the skin, leaving your face healthy and soothed.

Adjustable Razor:
Classic Head:
Slant or Open Comb:
TTO or Butterfly:
2-Piece or 3piece:
Stainless Steel:

Why Use A Shaving Brush? - Benefits and Technique

While many men enjoy the way using a brush engages them in the shaving experience, a quality shaving brush is more than an accent, and offers many practical applications for achieving a smooth, trouble-free shave. A good brush will bear an abundance of lather from a minimal amount of soap or cream, and, when put to the face, will massage and exfoliate the skin. This is essential because as the bristles work their way beneath stubble, they lift stubborn and ingrown hairs, preparing the face for a shave that, without a brush, cannot be matched in closeness or comfort. Badger hair brushes, such as those sold on our site, are accepted as the benchmark in the industry due to the feather and durability of their bristles: a single brush can last up to a decade before its performance is compromised. To ensure longevity, we recommend applying lather from the tip of the brush in a sideways swinging motion. To clean, rinse the brush with warm water and shake out after each shave. Hanging the brush "bristle-down"¯ in a stand will continue to drain excess water, and prevent mildew that may occur when wet brushes are stored in cabinets or drawers.

About RoyalShave Brushes

The brushes on our site are handmade, and the bristles are hand-selected from the finest standard of badger hair so as to secure the integrity of each wisp on the brush head. The collective effect of such care and quality imparts a substantial difference between the products we sell and lesser grades of brushes: we sincerely hope this difference will grant you the ultimate in comfort and pleasure as you shave.

Types of Brushes - A Guide

Shaving brushes are differentiated by two factors: the handle, which concerns the look of the brush, and the bristle load, which concerns the performance of the brush. Whereas choosing the type of handle boils down to personal preference, choosing the type of bristle load influences the overall quality of your shave.

Today, some shaving brushes are made with boar hair or synthetic fibers; however, the best shaving brushes are made with badger hair, which is naturally resilient, soft to the touch, and able to hold a remarkable amount of water, thereby producing the most dense, silky lather. Brush makers generally grade their brush heads in three categories, with a marked difference in quality between them:

• Pure Badger consists of dark hair that covers about 60% of the badger, taken from the tail and back. This is the least preferred of the badger grades because it is comparatively coarse, with a wide shaft diameter.


• Best Badger consists of multi-colored hair covering about 25% of the badger's back. This hair is more conical in shape, making it softer to the touch and better-suited to create a rich lather.


• Silvertip or Super Badger consists of the white-tipped hair that covers 15% of the badger, found only on the neck and chest area. This portion of the badger's coat is specially adapted for insulation: the hairs are fine and supple, with prodigiously flared tips that produce a tantalizing sensation when spread over your skin. The Silvertip's natural design allows the largest water-holding capacity, which creates a richer lather and greatly reduces the risk of razor burn.

A Note on Badger Populations and Conservation

Brush manufacturers import their materials from Asia, where the longstanding trade of badger hair causes no threat whatsoever to the sustainability of badger populations. In these regions, badger hair is a historic and persistent commodity. Its high price and small market size, along with strict environmental controls adhered to by exporters and importers, insist on the livelihood of badger populations as well the dignity of commerce within the badger fur trade.

A Note About Shaving Stand Recommendations

The recommendations made by RoyalShave regarding which stands fit which brushes are measured from the brush knot (the part of the brush where the hair comes out of the handle). It causes no damage to brush hairs to hang your brush from the knot. The stand will not pinch your brush hairs or cause them to shed by hanging them from the brush knot per our recommended stands.

A straight razor is simply a blade attached to a two piece handle (scales) held together by pining. Blades are either made out of stain-resistant steel or carbon steel. Stain-resistant steel takes longer to hone but it is less brittle and will hold the edge longer. Carbon steel is quicker to hone but the edge is more brittle then the stainless steel. Handles are made out of many kinds of material from plastic to rare materials such as mammoth ivory.  Overtime all handles will warp to some degree. Wood and bone handles are the most stable and they add a nice balance wait to the razor. It is important to carefully close your blade, since handles do warp, and contact with the blade edge will cause damage.

The back, point, and blade are the major points of variations when it comes to straight razor design. There are four point shapes, spike, half round and oblique. Although the shape of the point can serve a function such as a spike point is great for small places and an oblique point often are used for straight angle grinds. But for the most part it is a matter of personal choice. The [back] of the blade can have different shapes as well. Most razors however are a smooth round shape since the back is important in the honing process. The blade comes in different grinds.

These different grinds change how the blade sharpens and how sharp the bald will get. The first grind is the straight grind. The blade uniform and this is the simplest blade to make. Then there are the 1/4 and 1/2 hollow grinds. Hollow ground blades allow for less metal to be removed honing the blade. Full hollow blades are the most difficult grind to make but the quickest to hone. A full hollow is the thinnest blade possible. This means that the blade is sharp and flexible. The increase flexibility means that the shaver must use greater caution not to apply to much pressure when shaving.

Blades also come in various widths. As with the grind and tip shape there are four different widths for straight razors. There is the 4/8(13mm), 5/8(17mm),6/8(20mm), and the 7/8(23mm). The standard size is 5/8(17mm), although some like the smaller blades because they allow for a more nimble shave, some prefer a larger blade because it allows more lather to build on the blade between rinsing. The larger blades also have more weight which some believe allows for a better shave. Like everything the kind of blade you chose is based on your experience level and personal preference. 

We recommend that you use only high quality stainless steel double edge razor blades to avoid rust. Blades of inferior quality may rust which can then be transferred onto the head of the razor. After each use, remove the razor blade from the razor, wash with water, and pat until completely dry. Proceed to store the razor blade in a safe place until next use. If you notice patches of rust developing on your razor, scrub gently using a medium or soft bristle tooth brush and tooth paste or scrubbing bubbles. To do a thorough cleaning of your razor, remove blade and drop in a vinegar bath for about 10 minutes. Once complete, run under cold water and pat dry.

We also recommend using Ballistol Lube to protect your stainless steel safety razor. It will keep the screws lubricated and protect your razor from rust for years.

What is the difference between shaving soap and shaving cream?

Though all the shaving creams and soaps on royalshave.com afford a copious lather well-suited for achieving a professionally close shave, the main difference between shaving soaps and creams lies in their consistency.

Shaving soaps, often packaged in a snug tin, are hard pucks that require a shaving brush to produce lather. Creating lather from shaving soap tends to be slightly more time-consuming; however, for those who adhere to a more traditional shaving ritual, these extra two to three minutes can be a source of pleasure. When using a shaving soap, simply pass the tips of a wet brush over the surface of the disc - this acquires the soap on the brush. Then, in a separate bowl or directly on the face, mix the soap into a dense, plentiful lather.

Shaving Creams are packaged in a jar or a tube, and can be applied with or without a brush. A dab of cream will mix easily into lather, either directly on the face, or in a bowl using a wetted brush.

Shaving Sticks, are hard but moist, and unlike soaps, are made to coat the face directly. A shaving brush is then required to conjure the lather.

About RoyalShave soaps and creams:

Royalshave.com is pleased to afford you with shaving creams from benchmark English manufacturers such as Taylor of Old Bond Street, Truefitt & Hill, and Vulfix, as well as from traditional European soap makers, like Haslinger and Golddachs, whose products' quality inherits the care and prudence of their old-world operations. We have chosen to supply our customers with the shaving creams and soaps we feel foster the richest lather and spring with the freshest, longest-lasting scents. In addition, we have made available rare, olive-oil based shaving soaps from the Italian company Riana in our effort to advance healthy skin through organic, environmentally-friendly products.

Styptic or alum?

An alum block is a clear-drying antiseptic designed for everyday use. Whether or not there are nicks or cuts, when glided over a wet, freshly-shaven face, an alum block reduces razor burn, tightens pores, and perhaps most importantly as far as alum users are concerned, feels wonderful going on the skin. Most alum blocks, such as the ones sold on royalshave.com, are called "potash alum"¯. These consist mainly of potassium minerals, and are naturally occurring.

Styptic pens are designed exclusively to treat cuts. They consist of salt pressed into sticks, and may leave a white residue on the face. These products are less for everyday use, but will help to mend stubborn nicks on the necessary occasion.

What is the difference between Russian Leather and Cowhide?

Russian Leather, known as Juchten in Germany, is set apart as the best kind of leather for strops because it is impregnated with birch oil in its tanning process. The natural birch oil renders it impervious to mold, and determines the strop's distinct texture, smell, and reddish color. Russian leather strops also require less "breaking in"¯, which can amount to massaging the strop with a bare hand before use, treating it with strop paste, or, if the leather isn't laying flat, straightening¯ it overnight by wrapping it in towels and placing it under a heavy, flat weight.

What is stropping? How do I use my strop to get the best edge?

A strop is a leather belt that acts as a final pre-shave sharpener. As the blade is dragged spine-first along the leather surface, tiny ridges and inconsistencies at the edge are smoothed to perfection, leaving the razor evenly sharp and ready to glide through rough facial hairs. Stropping before each shave will keep the razor in good condition and greatly increase the interval between when honing becomes compulsory.

Arriving at a keen blade edge through stropping is not automatic for beginners. Luckily, the act of stropping is a forgiving one, and beginning shavers can indulge in discovering their technique and exploring the intricacies of razor stropping without worrying about damage to the blade or strop. Leading with the spine, and exerting only enough pressure to keep the entire side of the blade flat against the leather, drag the razor flat along the strop. Unless you have an extra wide strop, dragging in a slight diagonal will be necessary in order to keep the full surface area of the blade in contact with the leather (this motion is commonly referred to as stropping in an "X"¯ pattern). After eight to ten inches of drag, flip the blade on its opposite side and repeat the same gesture in the reverse direction.

Many people use a preliminary linen strop in conjunction with their leather strop in order to clean the edge and prepare it for more stropping. The same technique applies to linen stropping as to leather stropping; however only about 10 passes (a complete upstroke and down-stroke) on the linen are necessary, whereas anywhere from 10 - 60 passes on the leather may be required.

How Long will my Strop last?

There is no reason why a well-made, properly cared for strop won't last a lifetime, and some have been known as family heirlooms for generations.

What Are Hones And How Do I Use Them?

While traditional razor hones were made from two-toned coffee-colored rocks called Belgian Stones, most hones sold today are water hones manufactured for the express purpose of sharpening straight razors. The Norton combination stone is probably the best of these on the market, with the 4000 side for use with dull razors, and the opposite 8000 side for polishing and touching up.

Honing technique is similar to stropping technique, except, when honing, the blade should be lightly run against the stone edge-first rather than dragged spine-first. The same "X"¯ pattern and delicate pressure is all that's required to keep the side of the blade flat on the stone. If restoring a blade that has been in frequent use, about 5 passes on the 800 side of the Norton is all that is required before stropping, and the razor should not need to be honed again for months.

How do I take care of my strop using Neatsfoot/Mink Oil?

To keep your strop from drying out or cracking, we recommend using any of the following methods of application.

- Add a couple drops of Neatsfoot or Mink Oil to a rag or cloth and apply to the surface of the strop. Follow by rubbing the strop in between your hands until warm and leave overnight. Repeat process as necessary.
- Apply a few drops of oil onto your palm and rub directly onto the strop, adding a very light coat. Leave overnight to allow for the strop to soak the oils. Repeat process as necessary
- Add a couple drops of Neatsfoot or Mink Oil to a rag or cloth and apply to the back of the strop. This process allows for the strop to absorb the oils while not leaving a slick surface.

Ready Shave:

All Dovo straight razors have been factory certified as "ready to shave", but do require proper stropping before use. We can provide references to trusted honemeisters for customers that prefer to have a blade that is sharper than factory standards. Additional honing services may delay your order for one to two weeks. Note: Honing your razor voids Dovo's factory warranty. Please call 1(800)801-0769 for further questions and assistance.

Important Advice to the User:

The blade of your open straight razor has a very fine and vulnerable cutting edge. Touching it or cutting materials other than beard hair, or using it for other than its intended purpose will damage or destroy it. Therefore a direct contact with the skin should only occur during the shaving session. Gentle stropping of the blade before shaving maintains the blade's cutting ability for several months, while too much pressure onto the strop will cause damage to the fine cutting edge. Please contact your dealer for further advice and information.

Maintenance:

Blades of open straight razors are made of stainless or carbon steel and therefore require a particular diligence and maintenance. Blade and handle have to be cleaned and dried carefully after use. For long term storage the blade should be lightly oiled and the open straight razor be kept in a dry environment.

*The warranty claim expires with improper treatment*

DOVO/Merkur Warranty:

There is a two year warranty on all products made by Dovo/Merkur starting from the day of purchase. This warranty only covers manufacture and material defects not damage caused from improper usage or normal wear. If you have any further question please contact us.

Alum: Alum in crystal form is applied to cuts or weepers to prevent or treat infections. The highest quality alum is referred to as potassium alum.

Bands: Higher grade badger brushes will often have a shift in color along the horizontal of the bristle. Two-band bristles are darker at the bottom and become lighter at the top, while three-band bristles start light, are dark in the middle and light again at the top.

Grit: Each manufacturer puts a level of grit on their stones. Generally speaking, the higher the number, the finer the hone. Each manufacturer's level will vary from one to the next.

Honing: Sliding the blade across the completely flat surface of a stone to grind away metal and sharpen the blade.

Lapping: Creating a completely flat honing stone by using coarse materials such as sand paper.

Lather: The art of mixing a soap or cream with air and water using a shaving brush to create a moisturizing formula for shaving. Lather can be produced using a bowl, dish, mug or even in the palm of your hand.

Open Tooth/Comb: Razors with an open safety bar that allows longer and coarser hairs to cross through. Also, many consider open tooth razors to give a closer shave because more of the blade is exposed.

Pass: One whole cycle of lathering the beard and shaving. Some will use multiple passes during one shave session in order to gradually remove stubble and get a closer shave.

Stropping: Before each straight razor shave, it is recommended to strop your straight razor by sliding it across the surface of a strop (leather or synthetic) to realign the blade, but without removing any of it.

Slant: Arguably, the most aggressive type of safety razor. The blade sits on a slant in the razor head with one side raised higher than the other.

Weepers: Small cuts made to the face while shaving. Weepers can often times draw blood and can be alleviated by alum solutions.